The grandmother said while sitting on the floor of the hanok with her daughter-in-law Bae Baek-hwa (57), pushing the dough. For noodles, first, mix flour and bean flour in a ratio of 3 to 1 and knead. The know-how is to slice the noodles as thinly as possible. Before I knew it, the dried dough became as thin as a sheet of paper. She said, “I was kneading and when one more guest came in outside the door, I pushed it one more time, and then the portion increased by one more bowl. Dried noodles were the staple food of Banga diners.”
The grandmother rolls the dough as thin as paper and rolls it like a scroll, then cuts it, and the knife that has been used for 70 years is excellent. It is so thin that it cannot be compared to the noodle sliced by the daughter-in-law. It is almost the thickness of somen noodles pulled out at the factory. “The thickness of the noodles represents the cooking skills of the family,” explains the grandmother.
祖母は嫁のペ・ベクファ（57）と一緒に韓屋の床に座り、生地を押しながら言った。麺はまず、小麦粉と豆粉を3対1の割合で混ぜてこねる。ノウハウは、麺をなるべく薄くスライスすること。いつの間にか、乾燥した生地が紙一枚分の薄さになった。こねていて、ドアの外にもう1人お客さんが入ってきたら、もう1回押して、1杯分増えた」という。乾麺は番傘食堂の主食だったのです。”
おばあさんが紙のように薄く巻いた生地を巻物のように巻き、それを切るのですが、70年使い込んだ包丁は絶品です。お嫁さんが切った麺とは比べものにならないくらい薄い。工場で抜いた素麺の太さに近い。”麺の太さはその家の料理の腕前を表す “と祖母は説明する。
The definitive version of dried noodles is broth. Sweetfish caught in the Nakdonggang River is brewed. “In the past, sweetfish was common. There was Hamgae before going to Hahoe Village, and there were so many sweetfish caught that it was called a sweetfish pond.” Sweetfish was rated the best among freshwater fish thanks to its low fishy smell and distinctive watermelon scent. It is so good for the bronchi that there is a saying, “If you have a bad cough, go buy sweet fish.” In Andong Seokbinggo, which was built in the 3rd year of King Yeongjo of the Joseon Dynasty, there is a record that sweetfish caught in the upper reaches of the Nakdonggang River was stored all year round. Ayu is only caught in June, before summer begins. So this time I had no choice but to use frozen sweetfish.
Sancho, cinnamon, and pepper are sprinkled on sweet fish broth that is as white as beef bone broth to remove the fishy smell, and noodles are rolled and boiled and scooped out, and topped with five-colored garnish. The noodles are complete. To this, add spicy sauce made by cutting green onion, garlic, and Cheongyang pepper to house soy sauce. In a bowl of noodles, even the history of the wives of the family is included.
乾麺の決定版といえばスープ。洛東江で獲れた鮎で醸造しています。”昔は鮎がよく獲れました。河回村に行く前にハムゲがあり、鮎の池と呼ばれるほど鮎がたくさん獲れました。” 鮎は生臭さが少なく、独特のスイカの香りのおかげで淡水魚の中で一番と評価された。気管支に良いので、”咳がひどいときは鮎を買いに行く “という言い伝えもある。朝鮮英祖3年に建てられた安東石屏風には、洛東江の上流で捕れた鮎を一年中保存していたという記録が残っている。鮎は夏が始まる前の6月にしか捕れない。だから今回は仕方なく冷凍の鮎を使いました。
牛骨スープのように白い鮎のスープに、三和、桂皮、胡椒を振りかけて生臭さを消し、麺を巻いて茹でてすくい上げ、五色の具をトッピングする。麺の完成である。これに、ハウス醤油にネギ、ニンニク、青陽唐辛子を切って作った辛味ダレを入れる。一杯の麺の中には、その家の奥さんたちの歴史までもが含まれている。
What is the common “Andong guksi”?
安東ククスとの共通点は？
Andong guksi, which we often encounter on the street, is not Geonjin guksu, but closer to what is called pressed guksu in Andong. While Geonjinguksu was a classy noodle, pressed noodle, made by boiling noodles and vegetables in boiling anchovy soup, was common people"s noodle. People in Andong said, “Pressed noodles are no different from Makguksu.” Nevertheless, it is called Andong-guksu because it is mixed with bean powder.
The reason why Andong guksijib, which is also common in Seoul, does not serve dried noodles is because sweetfish is expensive and hard to find these days. However, Kim Jun-sik, director of the Andong Cultural Center, presents another interpretation. In the past, the exchange of food culture in the region led to the road to marriage and the road to government service. When a daughter-in-law was brought in, food from her in-laws came in, and local food was passed on to Seoul as a local person who reached a government position went to Seoul. However, it is interpreted that the food of the Andong Banga was not transmitted to other regions because of the stubborn Andong nobles who chose isolation during the Japanese colonial period.
街でよく見かける安東ククスは、手打ちククスではなく、安東でいうところの押しククスに近い。手打ちククスが高級な麺であるのに対し、アンチョビの煮汁で麺と野菜を茹でた押しククスは、庶民の麺であった。安東の人たちは、”押しククスはマックグクスと変わらない “と言っていました。それでも安東グクスと呼ばれるのは、豆粉を混ぜて食べるからだ。
ソウルでも一般的な安東ククス屋が乾麺を出さないのは、最近は鮎が高価で入手しにくいからだ。しかし、安東文化院のキム・ジュンシク院長は別の解釈を提示する。かつて、この地域の食文化の交流は、結婚への道、そして役人への道へとつながっていった。嫁を迎え入れると姑の料理が入り、官職についた地方人がソウルに行くと地元の料理が伝わった。しかし、日本の植民地時代には頑固な安東貴族が鎖国を選んだため、安東番外地の料理は他地域に伝わらなかったと解釈されている。
https://www.joongang.co.kr/article/3581093
実は安東という地域名と麺の慶尚道方言が合わさった安東ククスが誕生した時間と空間が1980年代ソウルの江南（カンナム）というのは偶然なことではないかもしれない。 江南は1970年代以降ソウルに登場した新興富村の代名詞。 1980年代は3低ブームを上げ、中産層を中心に外食文化が発達し始めた時。 そして、ティケイ（TK大邱・慶北）というジョアが象徴するように当時の慶尚道全盛時代。 江南とは、富裕層住宅に住む成功した慶尚道出身の香水を刺激し、新たに編入された権力層と新興金持ちに「区別」を煽っていた時代的背景が安東ククスの大成功を推進したのではないだろうか？
https://www.seouland.com/arti/culture/culture_general/3455.html
The grandmother said while sitting on the floor of the hanok with her daughter-in-law Bae Baek-hwa (57), pushing the dough. For noodles, first, mix flour and bean flour in a ratio of 3 to 1 and knead. The know-how is to slice the noodles as thinly as possible. Before I knew it, the dried dough became as thin as a sheet of paper. She said, “I was kneading and when one more guest came in outside the door, I pushed it one more time, and then the portion increased by one more bowl. Dried noodles were the staple food of Banga diners.”
The grandmother rolls the dough as thin as paper and rolls it like a scroll, then cuts it, and the knife that has been used for 70 years is excellent. It is so thin that it cannot be compared to the noodle sliced by the daughter-in-law. It is almost the thickness of somen noodles pulled out at the factory. “The thickness of the noodles represents the cooking skills of the family,” explains the grandmother.
조모는 신부의 페·베크파(57)와 함께 한옥의 마루에 앉아, 천을 누르면서 말했다.면은 우선, 소맥분과 두분을 3대 1의 비율로 혼합해 반죽한다.노하우는, 면을 가능한 한 싱겁게 슬라이스 하는 것.어느새인가, 건조한 천이 종이 한 장 분의 얇음이 되었다.반죽하고 있고, 도어의 밖에 이제(벌써) 1명 손님이 들어 오면, 이제(벌써) 1회누르고, 한잔분 증가했다」라고 한다.마른 국수는 튼튼한 종이 우산 식당의 주식이었습니다."
할머니가 종이와 같이 얇게 감은 천을 두루마리와 같이 감아, 그것을 자릅니다만, 70년 유용한 부엌칼은 절품입니다.신부가 자른 면과는 비교가 안 될 정도 싱겁다.공장에서 뽑은 소면의 굵기에 가깝다."면의 굵기는 그 집의 요리의 솜씨를 나타내는 "과 조모는 설명한다.
The definitive version of dried noodles is broth. Sweetfish caught in the Nakdonggang River is brewed. “In the past, sweetfish was common. There was Hamgae before going to Hahoe Village, and there were so many sweetfish caught that it was called a sweetfish pond.” Sweetfish was rated the best among freshwater fish thanks to its low fishy smell and distinctive watermelon scent. It is so good for the bronchi that there is a saying, “If you have a bad cough, go buy sweet fish.” In Andong Seokbinggo, which was built in the 3rd year of King Yeongjo of the Joseon Dynasty, there is a record that sweetfish caught in the upper reaches of the Nakdonggang River was stored all year round. Ayu is only caught in June, before summer begins. So this time I had no choice but to use frozen sweetfish.
Sancho, cinnamon, and pepper are sprinkled on sweet fish broth that is as white as beef bone broth to remove the fishy smell, and noodles are rolled and boiled and scooped out, and topped with five-colored garnish. The noodles are complete. To this, add spicy sauce made by cutting green onion, garlic, and Cheongyang pepper to house soy sauce. In a bowl of noodles, even the history of the wives of the family is included.
마른 국수의 결정판이라고 하면 스프.낙동강에서 잡힌 은어로 양조하고 있습니다."옛날은 은어가 잘 잡혔습니다.하회촌에 가기 전에 함게가 있어, 은어의 연못으로 불리는 만큼 은어가 많이 잡혔습니다." 은어는 비릿함이 적고, 독특한 수박의 향기 덕분에 담수어 중(안)에서 제일이라고 평가되었다.기관지에 좋기 때문에,"기침이 심할 때는 은어를 사러 간다 "라고 하는 전언도 있다.조선영조 3년에 지어진 안동석 병풍에는, 낙동강의 상류에서 잡힌 은어를 일년내내 보존하고 있었다고 하는 기록이 남아 있다.은어는 여름이 시작되기 전의 6월 밖에 잡히지 않는다.그러니까 이번은 어쩔 수 없이 냉동의 은어를 사용했습니다.
우골스프와 같이 흰 은어의 스프에, 산와, 계피, 후추를 거절해 가 비릿함을 지워, 면을 감아 데쳐 퍼올려 오색의 도구를 토핑 한다.면의 완성이다.이것에, 하우스 간장에 파, 마늘, 청양고추를 잘라 만든 매운 맛 다레를 넣는다.한 잔의 면안에는, 그 집의 부인들의 역사까지도가 포함되어 있다.
What is the common "Andong guksi"?
안동 쿠크스와의 공통점은?
Andong guksi, which we often encounter on the street, is not Geonjin guksu, but closer to what is called pressed guksu in Andong. While Geonjinguksu was a classy noodle, pressed noodle, made by boiling noodles and vegetables in boiling anchovy soup, was common people"s noodle. People in Andong said, “Pressed noodles are no different from Makguksu.” Nevertheless, it is called Andong-guksu because it is mixed with bean powder.
The reason why Andong guksijib, which is also common in Seoul, does not serve dried noodles is because sweetfish is expensive and hard to find these days. However, Kim Jun-sik, director of the Andong Cultural Center, presents another interpretation. In the past, the exchange of food culture in the region led to the road to marriage and the road to government service. When a daughter-in-law was brought in, food from her in-laws came in, and local food was passed on to Seoul as a local person who reached a government position went to Seoul. However, it is interpreted that the food of the Andong Banga was not transmitted to other regions because of the stubborn Andong nobles who chose isolation during the Japanese colonial period.
거리에서 잘 보이는 안동 쿠크스는, 수타 쿠크스가 아니고, 안동에서 말할 곳의 밀기 쿠크스에 가깝다.수타 쿠크스가 고급면인데 대해, 안쵸비의 끓인 국물로 면과 야채를 데친 밀기 쿠크스는, 서민의 면이었다.안동의 사람들은,"밀기 쿠크스는 막크그크스와 다르지 않는 "이라고 말했습니다.그런데도 안동 그크스로 불리는 것은, 두분을 혼합해 먹기 때문이다.
서울에서도 일반적인 안동 쿠크스가게가 마른 국수를 내지 않는 것은, 최근에는 은어가 고가이고 입수하기 어렵기 때문이다.그러나, 안동 문화원의 김·즐시크 원장은 다른 해석을 제시한다.일찌기, 이 지역의 식생활 문화의 교류는, 결혼에의 길, 그리고 공무원에의 길로 연결되어 갔다.신부를 맞아들이면 시어머니의 요리가 들어가, 관직에 임한 지방인이 서울에 가면 현지의 요리가 전해졌다.그러나, 일본의 식민지 시대에는 완고한 안도 귀족이 쇄국을 선택했기 때문에, 안동 예외지의 요리는 타지역에 전해지지 않았다고 해석되고 있다.
https://www.joongang.co.kr/article/3581093
실은 안동이라고 하는 지역명과 면의 경상도 방언이 합쳐진 안동 쿠크스가 탄생한 시간과 공간이 1980년대 서울의 강남(강남)이라고 하는 것은 우연한 것은 아닐지도 모른다. 강남은 1970년대 이후 서울에 등장한 신흥 토미손의 대명사. 1980년대는 3저붐을 올려 중산층을 중심으로 외식 문화가 발달하기 시작했을 때. 그리고, 티케이(TK대구·경북)라고 하는 죠아가 상징하도록(듯이) 당시의 경상도 전성 시대. 강남이란, 부유층 주택에 사는 성공한 경상도 출신의 향수를 자극해, 새롭게 편입된 권력층과 신흥 부자에게 「구별」을 부추기고 있었던 시대 목표 배경이 안동 쿠크스의 대성공을 추진한 것은 아닐까?
https://www.seouland.com/arti/culture/culture_general/3455.html